May 24 min read

The magic of Malaga

Updated: Jun 18

I had been wanting to visit Malaga for a very long time and finally had the chance to take a four-day trip there in February - just me and my sketchbook. What an absolutely beautiful city! I fell in love with it for so many reasons: the architecture, the museums and art galleries, the food, the climate, and the general vibe. Compact, walkable and fascinating in so many ways, it's the perfect place for a short break and I came back with sketchpads full of new work.

Architecture

The period architecture was a consistent visual delight. I threaded my way through countless streets each day, taking in so many beautiful buildings and stopping to sketch what I saw.

Museums and art galleries

Malaga is awash with museums and art galleries. During my short stay, I took in the Interactive Museum of Music (MIMMA), where I was thrilled to see an ancient kora, balafon, marimba and djembe drum from Africa on display.

The Unicaja Museum of Popular Arts and Customs, housed in the 17th century Mesón de la Victoria inn, was filled to the brim with artefacts, including detailed reconstructions of various rooms.

I love going to art galleries and at this time of year the lack of crowds made for tranquil visits where I could really take in the beautiful artworks on display. The Revello de Toro Museum, in the restored home of sculptor Pedro de Mena, displays a large collection of works by Malaga-born artist Felix Revello de Toro (1926-).

I also really enjoyed the Carmen Thyssen Museum and its vast collection of Old Masters, landscapes, naturalist paintings, end of century artworks, and (very excitingly!) a temporary exhibition of Man Ray's most iconic photographs of portraits, nudes and his 'rayograms'.

Unfortunately, the Picasso museum was changing its main collection while I was there and there were only 16 artworks on display (compared to the usual collection of over 200). I decided to head to Picasso's birthplace instead and really enjoyed seeing the house and its displays.

City squares

Malaga has lots of lovely squares but the one I had the most fun visiting was the Plaza de la Merced. Flooded with sunlight all day, it has an expansive feel, with lots of people basking in the sun at the outdoor cafes and watching the world go by.

I was sitting sketching the scene there one afternoon when an incredible group of young breakdancers came along and did a jaw-dropping performance. As I love drawing people in movement, I made some quick sketches and had a quick chat with one of them afterwards. I developed lots of sketches of them in the following days and connected with them on Instagram (they are Chamos Crew from Venezuela). I really enjoy following them online and watching their amazing dance skills and the high energy of their performances.

Ancient buildings

At the foot of the Alcazaba fortress there's a beautifully restored Roman amphitheatre.

The climb up the hill to the Alcazaba is really worth the effort. The fortress was modified and/or rebuilt multiple times up to the 14th century. It's wonderfully preserved and there's so much to see. The location is also the perfect place to sit down awhile and take in the ancient atmosphere (which I could feel in the air) and admire the superb vistas stretching along the seafront.

The cathedral

The Roman Catholic cathedral, Santa Iglesia Catedral Basílica de la Encarnación, is astonishing. When I went inside I found it quite dizzying to look up at its height of 84 metres. Built between 1528 and 1782, the style is Renaissance but the façade is Baroque. It's one of the most unusual churches I've seen to date.

Eateries

Malaga has more eateries than any other city I've visited. I loved spending time at the Dulces Dreams cafe with its friendly staff and relaxed atmosphere. I ate an excellent tofu dish at Mala Leche. The pistachio ice cream at the ice cream parlour next to the Revello de Toro Museum was one of the best I've ever tasted. I found a delicious filled brioche from the tiny astrid bakery and couldn't resist a unique type of cheesecake at La tarta de la madre de Cris.

I even found a lovely restaurant serving vegan food in a beautiful outdoor courtyard. I also decided that a bad cup of coffee simply doesn't exist in Malaga! Every coffee I ordered was perfectly made, just to the right strength.

Food markets

Today, Ataranzas is Malaga's most famous food market but its origins go back to the 14th century when it was built as a shipyard during the reign of Mohammed V. The food produce was presented so beautifully, I could have spent hours wandering around in there.

I feel very at home when I visit food markets such as this. Perhaps it's from when I was growing up in Newcastle upon Tyne and a trip to the city centre with my Mum would often include visiting the Grade 1 listed Grainger Market to buy fresh food produce. The market also sold flowers and clothes and I remember my Mum worked in the Marks & Spencer Penny Bazaar shop for a time. It's still there today and it always makes me feel very nostalgic when I pop in there during my visits home.

Street art and art supplies

I saw some vibrant street art in Malaga and, of course, whenever I go away I like to find the local art supplies shops. I had a nice trip to the Iberia Art Shop just across the road from Ataranzas, and stocked up on some very reasonably priced fineliner pens.

I can't wait to go back to Malaga! I'll take a longer trip next time so that I can explore both the city itself and the surrounding towns and cities by train, such as Cordoba, Seville, Granada, Estepona and, further afield, Cadiz.