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North Devon adventures

Updated: Jul 26, 2023

"Stay-cation": it's the new buzz word since coronavirus made holidaying abroad something of a logistical mountain. Like many people I guess, I tend to head off abroad for my annual leave. But the countries I was planning to visit this year aren't on the (albeit ever-changing) list of approved "travel corridors" from the UK. So instead I've been throwing myself into exploring regions of the UK I had never visited before.


Tangled Bank Holidays

This past week was spent in North Devon where we received a lovely warm welcome at Tangled Bank Holidays from Zoë, Steve, and Zoë's mum Pippa. This is such a beautiful place: peaceful and quiet (the bliss of no traffic noise), stunning views over the valley and hills ( I spy you Dartmoor), vast night skies peppered with billions of stars (how tiny I felt), getting up close to the gorgeous woolliness of resident alpacas Raisin and Virgil. and watching the chirpy comings and goings of the many chickens and their young roaming freely around the farm.

Visiting the region

Being late autumn, we had some sunny days and a bit of rain, so we mixed it up by visiting towns and villages on the coast and inland, and taking in the stunning countryside en route.

Appledore A little fishing village at the juncture of the Rivers Taw and Torridge, with expansive views from the picturesque quay lined with cafes and restaurants. Perfect for a relaxing stroll, coffee and cake, or just to sit down and admire the view over the estuary.

Bideford

The pannier market at Bideford

Situated on the west bank of the River Torridge, there's a 16th century arched stone bridge, a quay for taking a relaxing stroll, and a wealth of antique shops and small independent businesses just a short walk up the hill from the quay. Climb a bit further up to visit the famous Bideford Pannier market (pictured). As a memento I bought a lovely handmade soap dish at the Jill Rousseau Gallery on Cooper Street.


Ilfracombe

A very popular and bustling town on the north coast, the harbour is set against a dramatic rocky backdrop (pictured). It reminded me of one of the Greek islands I've been to - though not quite as warm! There's a huge Damien Hirst statue in the harbour, moored yachts in the bay, lots of cafes, and a steep hill offering fabulous views out to sea.

View from the harbour at Ilfracombe

Great Torrington

Arriving at the main car park, visitors are rewarded with a spectacular visual treat looking out over the tranquil valley (pictured). The town has a pannier market and a lovely square filled with period buildings, cafes and a bakery.

View over the valley at Great Torrington

While there, we also visited the Dartington Crystal factory on the edge of town. The only remaining glass factory in the UK, the tour provides a fascinating insight into the superb skills of the team of glassmakers.

The glassblowing workshop at the Dartington Crystal factory

South Molton

This was the nearest town to our base at Tangled Bank Holidays and we really liked the atmosphere. There's a pannier market on Thursdays (pictured) and lots of independent shops. The Zest cafe (pictured) is a must-visit for its delicious food.

Chittlehampton

A charming village with a huge church, period cottages and an award-winning pub, The Bell.


Knightshayes (National Trust)

A fascinating Gothic Revival Victorian house designed by William Burges. Set in 250 acres of exquisite gardens and parkland, it's perfect for walks. The trees are tall and majestic and there's an impressive 19th century walled kitchen garden.

Quince's Honey Farm

With my love of bees, this was an absolute joy and the highlight of the trip. I rambled like a child around the fields of sunflowers. They had died back by this time of the year, of course, but the sight filled me with anticipation for my return trip to Tangled Bank next June, when I'll see the fields in full bloom. The staff are friendly and knowledgeable and the shop is filled with a range of natural honeys produced right there on the farm, and a wide selection of gifts. The beautiful Nectar Gardens are a must-see, with pollinating plants that produce up to 3,000 litres of nectar per annum, skep hives and dry stone walls. From the well-stocked cafe there's a view onto several observational beehives outside that show the bees at work.

Back at Tangled Bank, I went late blackberry picking, fed Raisin and Virgil, and gathered some lovely apples to bring home for baking. And, of course, I couldn't leave without stocking up on Pippa's summer honey. I am now officially in honey heaven for the rest of the year! Thank you Tangled Bank, for making our stay in North Devon feel really special!

Various jars of natural honey
Wooden-shaped leaf from Tangled Bank Holidays, North Devon

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Blog copyright Barbara Grehs

Published on 1 October 2020


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